From the Romanian Blouse, through Matisse’s painting, to haute couture Yves Saint Laurent
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2023-09-11 20:50
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391:75.04(498) (1)
Îmbrăcăminte. Costume. Costume naționale. Modă. Podoabe (275)
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DRAGOMIR, Luiza, TOMESCU, Lavinia. From the Romanian Blouse, through Matisse’s painting, to haute couture Yves Saint Laurent. In: Portul popular – expresie a istoriei şi culturii neamului, Ed. 2, 23-24 iunie 2022, Chişinău. Chișinău: Tipogr. „Notograf Prim”, 2022, Ediția 2, pp. 52-53. ISBN 978-9975-84-162-7.
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Portul popular – expresie a istoriei şi culturii neamului
Ediția 2, 2022
Conferința "Portul popular – expresie a istoriei şi culturii neamului"
2, Chişinău, Moldova, 23-24 iunie 2022

From the Romanian Blouse, through Matisse’s painting, to haute couture Yves Saint Laurent

CZU: 391:75.04(498)

Pag. 52-53

Dragomir Luiza, Tomescu Lavinia
 
Constantin Brâncuși University, Târgu-Jiu
 
 
Disponibil în IBN: 8 decembrie 2022


Rezumat

One of the most beautiful elements of the Romanian traditional culture is the Romanian blouse (ia), which represents a symbol of national identity. In Romania, the blouse and the traditional Romanian dress appear in many representations of historical subjects, but also related to the village and the Romanian peasant. The beauty of the Romanian blouse was represented in the paintings of Nicolae Vermont, Tonitza, Ștefan Dimitrescu, Camil Ressu or Ion Theodorescu-Sion etc. Painting the Romanian Blouse, the famous painter Henri Matisse gave him artistic durability and international recognition. In reality, the painting, which is now in the Museum of Modern Art in Paris, had become a symbol of Romanianness and especially of Romanian femininity. Painting is the result of a long process of simplification that Matisse went through to achieve this formidable fusion of lines and colors. The strong harmony of the colored surfaces gives this painting a remarkable vitality. The decorative embroidery of the blouse is the real subject of the painter who was very interested in fabrics of all kinds. Matisse had a whole collection of similar blouses, offered by his Romanian friend, Theodor Pallady, one of the most famous painters of the time. ”Romanian Blouse” is an amazing innovative painting that still charms and inspires. Yves Saint Laurent was the first haute couture designer to discover and promote the Romanian blouse, propelling it from ethnic clothing to an elegant and refined garment. ”She” represented the star of the 1981 YSL parade organized as a tribute to Henri Matisse and his painting ”Romanian Blouse”. The Romanian blouse also inspired the famous Jean Paul Gaultier. A designer who worked for Jean-Paul Gaultier copied elements from the Romanian blouse to put on evening dresses. Three lesser-known works complete the representation of the Romanian blouse in painting. The first, called Young Romanian, was made by the French painter Auguste Renoir in 1914. The other two canvases representing the Romanian blouse are works by the American painter Frederick Arthur Bridgman and the Polish Franciszek Teodor Ejsmond painted in 1882 and 1885. Ia (Romanian blouse) inspires the fashion of the present and the future.