Local variants of breast (shoulder) clothes of Ukrainians of the north of Moldova
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391(=161.2)(478) (6)
Костюмы. Одежда. Национальная одежда. Моды. Украшения (280)
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KOZHUKHAR, Viktor. Local variants of breast (shoulder) clothes of Ukrainians of the north of Moldova. In: Patrimoniul cultural: cercetare, valorificare, promovare, Ed. 10, 30-31 mai 2018, Chișinău. Chișinău: Institutul Patrimoniului Cultural, 2018, Ediția 10, pp. 108-109. ISBN 978-9975-84-063-7.
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Patrimoniul cultural: cercetare, valorificare, promovare
Ediția 10, 2018
Conferința "Patrimoniul cultural: cercetare, valorificare, promovare"
10, Chișinău, Moldova, 30-31 mai 2018

Local variants of breast (shoulder) clothes of Ukrainians of the north of Moldova

CZU: 391(=161.2)(478)

Pag. 108-109

Kozhukhar Viktor
 
Institute of Cultural Heritage of the Academy of Sciences of Moldova
 
 
Disponibil în IBN: 11 iunie 2018



Teza

In the Northern regions of Moldova, the breast (shoulder) clothes of UkraiINTERNATIONAL nians were sleeveless jackets – „киптарі” (kiptari), „кожухи” (kozhuhy), „сардаки” (sardaky), „манти” (manty). A sheepskin sleeveless shirt – „киптарь”, „кіптарь” (kiptar) is worn over the shirt. Both festive and ordinary sleeveless jackets were decorated with embroidery. The difference between them was only in the richness of the garnish. Along with fur sleeveless jackets in all regions of Moldova, there were casings – a warm practical kind of shoulder clothes. According to the cut they were divided into three types: short erect, which were just below the waist, мінтяни (up to the knees) and long shrouds that were below the knees. Another type of shoulder garment with sleeves was the „сердак” (serdak) – a short coat made of gray, brown or black cloth, which retained the traditional tunic cut. Sardak had small cuts on the sides and on the hem, straight, wide sleeves, a low collar, and from the beginning of the 20th century – a „folding” collar. Sardak, like other outer clothing, was worn mainly on top of the casing. It was decorated with embroidery. At the end of XIX – first half of XX century, in the Ukrainian villages of the north of Moldova, „манты” (manty) – long coats with fluttering floors and a high collar that formed a cover for the head – „капак” (kapak) were widely used. They were female shoulder clothes for the autumn-winter season. A „свита” (svyta) of homespun black and brown cloth prevailed in them. „Чугаїна” (chugaina) was sewed from the same cloth. It was cut-off on the back, and whole-cut in front. Female casings in the northern regions were of two types. There were widespread cut at the waist, with dense frills, called „під чемерку” (pid chemerku), as well as the type of female casing with a straight cut and a straight back – „тулуб” (tulub).