Modern Reflections of Historical Memory of the Expression of National Identity through Clothing in Everyday Life of the Ukrainian Intelligentsia in the Second Half of the 19th Century
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391(=161.2)(477)"XIX" (1)
Костюмы. Одежда. Национальная одежда. Моды. Украшения (275)
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OLIYNYK, Maryna. Modern Reflections of Historical Memory of the Expression of National Identity through Clothing in Everyday Life of the Ukrainian Intelligentsia in the Second Half of the 19th Century. In: Tradiţii şi procese etnice, Ed. Ediţia a 4-a, 30 martie 2023, Chişinău. Chişinău: Notograf Prim, 2023, Ediția 4, p. 73. ISBN 978-9975-84-188-7.
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Tradiţii şi procese etnice
Ediția 4, 2023
Conferința "Simpozionul internaţional de etnologie:"
Ediţia a 4-a, Chişinău, Moldova, 30 martie 2023

Modern Reflections of Historical Memory of the Expression of National Identity through Clothing in Everyday Life of the Ukrainian Intelligentsia in the Second Half of the 19th Century

CZU: 391(=161.2)(477)"XIX"

Pag. 73-73

Oliynyk Maryna
 
Rylsky Institute of Art Studies, Folklore and Ethnology
 
 
Disponibil în IBN: 31 iulie 2023


Rezumat

An essential function of traditional clothing is the expression of national identity. Modern Ukraine is fighting for the right to develop it within the state territory recognized by international law. Studying the origins of forming the conscious national identity meets the demands of modern Ukrainian society. The visual markers became especially important in this context. In particular, nationally branded clothing has become the symbol of the whole of Ukraine fighting for its state’s independence. The tradition of expressing a pro-Ukrainian position through external image is related to the national-democratic movement of “Narodniks” that became widespread in the second half of the 19th century under the influence of the European “Spring of Nations”. In our study, we focus on the popularity of demonstrating one’s spiritual beliefs of cultural unity with the Ukrainian people among the intelligentsia through wearing the national clothing. At the same time, this trend caused a sharply negative reaction from the authorities of the Russian Empire, which annexed part of the Ukrainian lands. The study of memoir literature and published archival materials allowed us to collect the facts of the persecution of pro-Ukrainian movement figures due to their use of Ukrainian clothing in everyday life. According to records, the official authorities have made the claims or organized surveillance due to the wearing of Ukrainian clothing by P. Chubynskyi, T. Rylskyi, B. Poznansyi, A. Krasovskyi, A. Svydnytskyi, M. Viligorskyi, V. Menchyts, N. Tumasov, S. Yefremov.

Cuvinte-cheie
Ukrainian clothes, urban culture, intelligentsia, identity