Декор традиционных рубашек «сорóчок» на закарпатской гуцульщине конца XIX – начала XXI вв.: кружево
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391:746(477)”XIX-XXXI” (1)
Костюмы. Одежда. Национальная одежда. Моды. Украшения (276)
Рисование и черчение. Дизайн. Декоративно-прикладное искусство и художественные промыслы (336)
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КОЗАКЕВИЧ, Олена. Декор традиционных рубашек «сорóчок» на закарпатской гуцульщине конца XIX – начала XXI вв.: кружево. In: Patrimoniul cultural de ieri – implicații in dezvoltarea societatii durabile de maine, Ed. 2, 22-23 septembrie 2020, Chişinău. Iași – Chișinău: 2020, Ediția 2, pp. 157-163. ISSN 2558 – 894X.
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Patrimoniul cultural de ieri – implicații in dezvoltarea societatii durabile de maine
Ediția 2, 2020
Conferința "Patrimoniul cultural de ieri – implicații în dezvoltarea societății durabile de mâine"
2, Chişinău, Moldova, 22-23 septembrie 2020

Декор традиционных рубашек «сорóчок» на закарпатской гуцульщине конца XIX – начала XXI вв.: кружево

Décor of traditional shirts “sorochkas” in transcarpathian hutsul region of the end XIX – early XXI centuries: lace.

CZU: 391:746(477)”XIX-XXXI”

Pag. 157-163

Козакевич Олена
 
Институт народоведения НАН Украины, Львов
 
 
Disponibil în IBN: 11 martie 2021


Rezumat

In the paper local features of traditional shirts “sorochkas” in sets of clothes in Transcarpathian Hutsul region of the end XIX – early XXI centuries are discussed. Openwork items` universal and unique parameters in the context of Hutsul folk clothing in time dimension slice are defined. Special attention is focused to décor, namely lace. Based on literature sources and author`s field researches local features of items this typological group, in particular, the methods of decoration, which were formed as a result of the socio-cultural and ethnic characteristics of this territory are analysed. Technique and technological methods of manufacturing textile adornments, ways of forming their artistic and stylistic features, local versions of ornaments are studied. On the grounds of on these studies, the most striking centers of openwork decor have been identified. Defined that the folk clothing and their décor in north territories (Yasinia, Chorna Tysa, Lazenshchyna, Kvasy, Bilyn) has general characteristics with the clothing of Galician Hutsul region (Voronenko, Vorokhta, Yablunytsia). Openwork adornments of shirts in this territory were fragmented: connecting stitches by embroidery or knitting techniques were made. And on the contrary, the clothes of the southern part of the Rakhiv region are more similar to the Slovak and Romanian clothing for the structural elements and décor. For example, lace decor, crocheted or industrially made, is common in female shirts of the «Volokh» (Romanian) type. Ornaments of this territory mainly consists of phytomorphic motifs (inflorescences, buds, twigs, leaves). Thus, the combination of embroidery, lace, textures and structural details created a unique for the ethnographic Hutsul region, but a widespread and typical for the Ukrainian-Romanian borderland the décor type of traditional female shirts “sorochkas”. A number of works, photographs, respondents` narratives and local terms obtained during expeditions have been introduced into scientific use.

Cuvinte-cheie
lace, decor, tradition, typology, local features, shirts, adornment, manufacturing techniques, technological ornament, artistic characteristics.