An Embroidery on Clothes of Ukrainians: Continuity of the Tradition from the X Century to the XIX Century (According to the Archeological and Written Sources)
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2024-06-05 16:29
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391:745.52(=161.2)(477)"X-XIX" (1)
Îmbrăcăminte. Costume. Costume naționale. Modă. Podoabe (279)
Desen. Design. Artă aplicată și meserii de artă (341)
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BALUSHOK, Vasyl, OLIYNYK, Maryna. An Embroidery on Clothes of Ukrainians: Continuity of the Tradition from the X Century to the XIX Century (According to the Archeological and Written Sources). In: Portul popular – expresie a istoriei şi culturii neamului, Ed. 2, 23-24 iunie 2022, Chişinău. Chișinău: Tipogr. „Notograf Prim”, 2022, Ediția 2, p. 50. ISBN 978-9975-84-162-7.
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Portul popular – expresie a istoriei şi culturii neamului
Ediția 2, 2022
Conferința "Portul popular – expresie a istoriei şi culturii neamului"
2, Chişinău, Moldova, 23-24 iunie 2022

An Embroidery on Clothes of Ukrainians: Continuity of the Tradition from the X Century to the XIX Century (According to the Archeological and Written Sources)

CZU: 391:745.52(=161.2)(477)"X-XIX"

Pag. 50-50

Balushok Vasyl, Oliynyk Maryna
 
Rylsky Institute of Art Studies, Folklore and Ethnology
 
 
Disponibil în IBN: 8 decembrie 2022


Rezumat

Allegations have appeared in the media space of Ukraine about the emergence of embroidery on clothes in rural life not earlier than the end of the XVIII century. Therefore, the task was to establish if the embroidery on clothes of Ukrainians existed before the XVII century (before the XVIII century in commonalty). Also, the continuity of the embroidery to the times of the Old Russ was of primary interest. We studied the archeological, iconographic, and written sources. The archeological materials on the Old Russ by M. Novitska (1965), M. Saburova (1975), I. Sveshnikov (1990), M. Fechner (1995), K Mikhailov (2007), V. Ivakina (2008), M. Sagaidak, S. Taranenko, D. Peftits (2016) were processed. We used the Galician-Volyn Chronicle and reports of European travelers who visited Russ–Ukraine in the XV–XVII centuries, namely, Gilbert de Lannoy, Guillaume Le Vasseur de Beauplan, Conrad Jakob Hildebrandt, Ulrich von Werdum. These written sources contain some notes about the embroidery on Ukrainian garments in particular periods of the medieval – early modern ages. Memoirs by Adam Olearius about the embroidery on the clothes of the inhabitants of Moscovia and Poland of that time are drawn as parallels. The published documents of court cases of the XVI century are processed. Also, we have studied the records and drawings of „topographic” descriptions of the end of the XVIII – beginning of the XIX century by M. Antonovsky (1799), O. Rigelman (1847), A. Shafonsky (1851), E. Glogovsky (1991) containing the information about embroidery on clothes commoners. The presented material shows the continuity of the embroidery on the Ukrainian dress from Kyivan Russ.