Tradition of Beaded Decoration in the Ukrainian Folk Costume: Reconstruction of the Second Stage (Based on the Materials of Western Regions of Ukraine)
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391(477) (7)
Îmbrăcăminte. Costume. Costume naționale. Modă. Podoabe (277)
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FEDORCHUK, Olena, MOTYL, Romana. Tradition of Beaded Decoration in the Ukrainian Folk Costume: Reconstruction of the Second Stage (Based on the Materials of Western Regions of Ukraine). In: Arta , 2023, vol. 32, nr. 1(AV), pp. 124-131. ISSN 2345-1181. DOI: https://doi.org/10.52603/arta.2023.32-1.17
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Arta
Volumul 32, Numărul 1(AV) / 2023 / ISSN 2345-1181 /ISSNe 2537-6136

Tradition of Beaded Decoration in the Ukrainian Folk Costume: Reconstruction of the Second Stage (Based on the Materials of Western Regions of Ukraine)

Tradiţia decorului cu mărgeluşe de sticlă al costumului popular ucrainean reconstruirea celei de-a doua etape (în baza materialelor din regiunile de vest ale Ucrainei)

DOI:https://doi.org/10.52603/arta.2023.32-1.17
CZU: 391(477)

Pag. 124-131

Fedorchuk Olena, Motyl Romana
 
Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine, Lviv
 
 
Disponibil în IBN: 5 septembrie 2023


Rezumat

Articolul continuă reconstrucţia începută anterior a tradiţiei artistice etnice a decorului cu mărgeluşe de sticlă [бисер] al costumului popular ucrainean. Este prezentată viziunea autorului asupra celei de-a doua etape în dezvoltarea acestei tradiţii (sfârşitul secolului al XIX-lea – mijlocul secolului al XX-lea). S-a constatat că, în a doua etapă a dezvoltării sale, tradiţia decorului cu mărgeluşe de sticlă al costumului popular ucrainean a cunoscut o fază de ascensiune creativă. Meşterii populari ucraineni au extins semnificativ arsenalul mijloacelor tehnice şi artistico-stilistice ale creaţiei sale. Se foloseau asemenea tehnici ca ridicarea firelor, coaserea „în ataşament”, înşiruire, ţesut, broderie. A fost extinsă substanţial tipologia componentelor de mărgeluşe de sticlă ale portului popular. Deopotrivă cu podoabele aplicate şi acoperămintele de cap, decorul cu mărgeluşe de sticlă îşi face apariţia în structura unor componente şi accesorii vestimentare mai vechi şi mai noi. Graţie implementării tehnicilor de ţesut şi broderie, stilistica artistică a obţinut o dezvoltare continuă. În compoziţiile componentelor de mărgele ale costumului, pe lângă motivele de forme geometrice, au apărut motive de forme geometrizante, precum şi simbolica naţională. S-a îmbogăţit substanţial şi policromia lucrărilor din mărgele. A continuat dezvoltarea cu succes a trăsăturilor generale ucrainene şi locale ale artei populare. Cunoştinţele acumulate de autori vor fi interesante etnologilor, criticilor de artă, precum şi artizanilor contemporani ai articolelor din mărgeluşe de sticlă.

The article continues the previously started reconstruction of ethnic artistic tradition of beaded decoration in the Ukrainian folk costume. The authors’ vision of the second stage of development of this tradition (the end of the 19th– the middle of the 20th centuries) is presented. It was found that at the second stage of its development, the tradition of beaded decoration in the Ukrainian folk costume went through the phase of creative uplift. Ukrainian folk craftsmen considerably expanded the arsenal of technical as well as artistic and stylistic means of their creative works. The following techniques were used: typesetting, sewing “v prykrip“, stringing, weaving, embroidery, etc. The typology of beaded components of the folk costume expanded significantly. Alongside with overhead jewelry and headdresses, the beaded decoration emerged in the structure of several old and new components of clothes and accessories. By virtue of the implementation of the techniques of weaving and embroidery, artistic stylistics developed further. In the compositions of beaded components of the costume, apart from the motifs of geometric shapes, the motifs of geometrised shapes appeared, as well as the national symbols. The colouring of beaded artworks was significantly enriched. Successful development of all-Ukrainian and local features of folk art continued. The knowledge, accumulated by the authors, will be of a great interest to ethnologists, art historians as well as modern folk craftsmen of beaded artworks.

Cuvinte-cheie
Ucraina, tradiţie artistică etnică, costum popular, decor cu mărgeluşe de sticlă,

Ukraine, ethnic artistic tradition, folk costume, beaded decoration

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