Hutsul folk costumes in the collection of the Seweryn Udziela Ethnografic Museum in Krakow: the history of the creation (embroidery, lace making, knitting)
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2023-06-02 20:37
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069.5:391(438) (1)
Muzee. Expoziții permanente (505)
Îmbrăcăminte. Costume. Costume naționale. Modă. Podoabe (275)
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KOZAKEVYCH, Olena. Hutsul folk costumes in the collection of the Seweryn Udziela Ethnografic Museum in Krakow: the history of the creation (embroidery, lace making, knitting). In: Patrimoniul cultural de ieri – implicaţii în dezvoltarea societăţii durabile de mâine, Ed. 6, 27-28 septembrie 2022, Chişinău. Iași – Chișinău: 2022, Ediția 6, pp. 193-198. ISSN 2558 – 894X. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.7129187
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Patrimoniul cultural de ieri – implicaţii în dezvoltarea societăţii durabile de mâine
Ediția 6, 2022
Conferința "Patrimoniul cultural de ieri – implicaţii în dezvoltarea societăţii durabile de mâine"
6, Chişinău, Moldova, 27-28 septembrie 2022

Hutsul folk costumes in the collection of the Seweryn Udziela Ethnografic Museum in Krakow: the history of the creation (embroidery, lace making, knitting)

DOI: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.7129187
CZU: 069.5:391(438)

Pag. 193-198

Kozakevych Olena
 
Ethnology Institute of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine, Lviv
 
Disponibil în IBN: 25 ianuarie 2023


Rezumat

The Hutsul region is one of the most researched historical and ethnographic areas of Ukraine and the Carpathian region. In the research on the Hutsul folk costume in the collection of the Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Krakow, or any other ethnic groups, it is important to take into consideration several important factors. The plans for the establishment of the Ethnographic Museum began in 1902 and were related to the exhibition on folk art from the collection of Seweryn Udziela, organized by the Polish Applied Arts Society. The National Museum in 1904 created an ethnographic department and a permanent ethnographic exposition in the Cloth Hall was opened. But the Ethnographic Museum was founded only in 1911 as an independent institution, thanks to Seweryn Udzela (1857–1937) – one of founders, first and only director. The following year after the death of the director museum was named in his honor. The present collection of the Hutsul folk costumes stored at the Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum of Kraków has been developed in several stages and is related to the history of two museums: the Museum of Technology and Industry (closed in 1950) and the National Museum in Krakow, where most of the MTI collections were transferred after its liquidation. These collected exhibits were transferred as a deposit from the National Museum to the MEK in 1939 and entered into the MEK Inventory Book in 1989. The origin of the artefacts is evidenced by the metrics on the objects, which to some extent emphasize the historical value of the collections and provide some data on the approximate age of the objects. The main part of the collection dates from the end of the 19th and the first half of the 20th centuries (until the outbreak of World War II). The Hutsul collection was assembled thanks to private donors. During the query, objects from the «Hutsulshchyna» boxes and cabinets were selected, and marked in the inventory cards as «Hutsul», «Hutsul region» or «Ruthenians» are in fact of a different origin. The MEK collection consists of traditional clothing and accessories that complemented and added an air of uniqueness to the folk costume of the Hutsul region. This collection includes women’s and men’s garments and a few children’s items: shirts, headgear, footwear, leather and woven belts, aprons, trousers, scarves, outerwear made of wool and leather. Detailed research on a topic requires a separate article, or even a monograph, whereas the aim of this text is to focus attention on the issues of scientific study of the collections of the Hutsul costumes at the MEK, their attribution and the artistic features of a number of exhibits. It is important to establish and corroborate the origin of the object, its terminology (local name), together with manufacturing techniques and patterns. Hutsul folk art became an ethnic rotor promoting the Hutsul region far beyond its borders. This popularization resulted in an increased interest in collecting Hutsul artefacts and researching the material and spiritual culture of the Eastern Carpathian highlanders. To some extent, this is the reason why there are numerous and valuable collections in museums in other countries, including in Poland. One of such museums is the Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Krakow, which has unique historical artefacts of the Hutsul folk costumes and textiles, which come mainly from the end of the 19th century and first three decades of the 20th century. Original ornaments, colours and types of garments and accessories show a local variety of the Hutsul clothing. This can be a foundation for an artistic interpretation of the collection. Nevertheless, a number of objects require a more precise attribution, and the collection in general needs further elaboration – in the context of social, cultural, ethnographic and local factors – in order to define and identify the phenomenon of the traditional Hutsul folk costume.

Cuvinte-cheie
Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Krakow, Hutsul region, collections, folk costume, embroidery, lace making, knitting, tradition, ornaments